Pendant que les modèles vacillaient sur leurs chaussures fétichistes de plate-forme qui ont été attachées avec les vrilles blanches de lingerie aux chevilles, elles ont semblé symboliques de l'exposition de Prada mardi. Dans son jeu habile sur des conditions féminines et la séduction, Miuccia Prada a rarement mis un mal de pied. Mais cette fois elle a pris une dégringolade aussi évidente que le modèle malheureux, dont la figure, pliant comme un décapant de pipe pendant qu'elle frappait le plancher en béton, fait même le tortillement de fashionista le plus chevronné.

As the models wobbled on their fetishistic platform shoes that were tied with white lingerie frills at the ankles, it seemed symbolic of Prada's show on Tuesday. In her deft play on womanhood and seduction, Miuccia Prada has rarely put a foot wrong. But this time she took a tumble as obvious as the unfortunate model, whose figure, folding up like a pipe cleaner as she hit the concrete floor, made even the most seasoned fashionista squirm.

No Prada collection is other than intriguing. The Elvis Presley music on the soundtrack gave a sensual overtone. But after last season's stellar riff on lace, this show covered some familiar ground - except that this time, the path was painted with a shoal of fish. The motif then turned up as a pattern on a cotton dress, emphasizing the mix of innocence and sexuality in the show.

"Going primitive - going back to the essence of things - I wanted to clean it up," said Prada backstage, referring to slim jackets and skirts in crumpled cotton, with a thrusting bra out front. Then there were the naive fish prints that looked like a kid's duvet cover and rompers, visible when a skirt flicked up. These child-like pieces were shown with a knowing innuendo that was disturbing.

Prada said she focused on the obsessions of women. That seemed to be sex of a blatant kind as the models looked like madams with their upswept chignons and oiled chests.

After the global success of Prada's lace, it was hard to see what would be the must-have piece of the season. Then came gilded dresses that had a brash bravure. But the strained faces of the models as they tried to walk the runway will be the lasting memory of this strange show.